I first found the dish in a vegetarian cookbook, though not one that advocated low-fat, no-animal-product cooking. The cauliflower is broken into florets and dumped on top of some sautéing onions then stirred over high heat with lots of pepper and lots of dried basil. When just starting to soften, crushed tomatoes and a little red wine are added. The cauliflower softens a bit more. Then, you make a simple béchamel with butter and flour and milk, stir in lots of grated cheddar and add to the mix. A sharper cheese, like an Italian Pecorino, makes it nicer.
I was surprised at how good this turned out the first time I made it. After the fiftieth on sixtieth time, I know what to expect. This is food that beckons you back to the pot on the stove after you’ve finished the portion on your plate. And, it’s really a healthy thing to eat. You should try it sometime. It’s delicious and you’ll be all warm inside.